On a weekday afternoon, the Old City of Damascus heaves with people, cars, motorcycles, bikes. Markets are full, buyers barter with merchants for the heaps of spices, Jasmine and other flowery perfumes, clothing, and most things one needs, abundant in the Hamidiyeh market.

At the end of the historic Roman Via Recta (Straight Street), boys play football amidst new and ancient columns. Vendors outside the old city call out their wares to busy streets.

Syria, in its fourth year of a devastating foreign-backed and armed attempt to overthrow the government, is somehow still pulsing with life and hope.